I’m a huge fan of the u/travel_ali guide to Switzerland, and given I had jotted down a lot of personal and slightly random reflections about Australia, I thought I would massage it into something similar. This will hopefully benefit people on a defined timeframe/budget who need to weigh-up different options when visiting the country (working holiday-makers and backpackers have the luxury of being less choosy and going just about everywhere).

So, why should anyone care about what I think?

• I’m a Canadian immigrant who has lived in Australia on-and-off for over 10 years, and I’ve travelled to many places (but of course, not everywhere). Given my situation, I’m in a relatively priviledged insider-outsider position when it comes to what to see and do here.

  • Australia is big. I mean, it’s absolutely humungous. It’s also a long way away from most people, so limited time and money really should be used as judiciously as possible. The more information people have about where to go, the better.
  • There appear to be a vast number of stereotypes about Australia which are basically incorrect, and I feel obliged to put the record straight on some aspects.
  • Australia is more diverse (in terms of landscapes, climates, and population) than outsiders might think, and there is such a vast amount of things to do and see here in purely quantitative terms.

A few disclaimers about what follows:

• It is all highly subjective, and many Australians will no doubt violently disagree with me.

• The ‘places’ below vary wildly in size, from individual towns to regions like ‘the Australian Alps’ and ‘South Coast NSW’ which each cover an area the size of Switzerland. Sorry about that.

• There are many significant areas of the country I haven’t explored, notably the Central Coasts of NSW and Queensland, most of the NT (e.g. MacDonnell Ranges), the island territories (Norfolk Is, Christmas Is, Lord Howe Is, Cocos Islands etc), the Torres Strait, the Gulf country, much of the inland agricultural areas (e.g. the Riverina) and the vast, vast majority of the Outback.

• I also haven’t been to the Kimberley. From what people have told me about it, especially Wren Gorge, Broome and the glamping around Kununnura, it sounds pretty amazing.

• I tend to prioritise opportunities to explore the outdoors (i.e. hiking or skiing) and seeing wildlife when travelling. If your interests deviate from this, you probably should take my opinions with a grain of salt.

RANDOM TIPS/OBSERVATIONS

Advice about recommended itineries, travelling logistics etc. are extensively covered in other threads on this sub. So I won’t go into much detail about these here.

Having said that, travelling in Australia is expensive; just embrace it. To really make the most of Australia, save-up and try not to worry about splashing out a bit on the odd flight. When taking a domestic flight into Sydney, book a window seat on the left-hand side of the plane. If you are really lucky air traffic control might route you onto the lesser-used northern approach to the airport. You will be treated to stunning views of the Sydney Basin, including the harbour, the bridge, the Opera House, and a surprisingly close encounter with the skyscrapers of downtown. The experience is worth the price of the ticket alone.

Campgrounds – perhaps with the exception of New Zealand, Australia probably has the densest network of campgrounds of any country. They are to Australia what youth hostels are to continental Europe. It is thus worth investing in a hard-copy campground guide if you are travelling around Australia for a significant amount of time. Many have relatively high-quality accomodation and lots of amenities (these are usually called ‘holiday parks’). If you’re on a budget, or you’re stuck in the middle of nowhere without somewhere to sleep, they are a good option.

Food and drink are amazingly high-quality almost everywhere, even in many rural areas. Australians are almost comically discerning when it comes to the quality of food and coffee, as much as the French or Italians are. As a food exporter, almost all produce is fresh and delicious, and this is particularly the case in Tasmania. Vietnamese restaraunts are everywhere and a good bet for an informal meal. Otherwise, chances are that just choosing a restaurant or cafe at random will see you get a good feed.

The same can’t be said for pubs and bars. There are plenty of good ones around, they can just be hard to find. If you don’t get a recommendation for a drinking establishment from a local, just stay and quaff your booze in a restaurant.

The cities are pleasant and safe but generally not that interesting. Australia’s best sights, what makes it unique, even the foundation myths of its national culture – all are found outside the cities. With a couple of notable exceptions, the cities should primarily be used as a base to explore the massive expanse of bush and wilderness all around you.

Whatever you do, try and go to an Aussie Rules game. Australian rules football is one of the quirkiest aspects of southern Australian culture. The sport itself is bonkers and seriously fun – it’s like it was devised by a hyperactive child given free reign to invent their own sport. Be warned, the games are ridiculously long, like an American Football match without the constant breaks. It is also accompanied by a plethora of hallowed and quite endearing traditions, from the colourful ‘cheer squads’ (usually representing a cross-section of Australian society), to the self-consciously rubbish club songs and the giant banners players literally run through to start the game. If you are in the southern half of the continent outside summer, put it on your itinerary.

No, the animals aren’t that dangerous. The wildlife is literally one of the best things about Australia. In all my time here I have encountered dangerous animals (primarily redbacks) on less than a handful of occasions. I know the stereotype is usually perpetuated in jest, but (maybe it’s because I’m a humorless Canuck) I honestly don’t get why it’s even funny, especially if some particularly gullible people actually miss out travelling here because of it. The only exception to this is crocodiles in the tropical north. But to be frank, if you get taken by a crocodile it probably means you’ve wilfully ignored a huge amount of advice about how to stay safe.

Australia is not a summer (December-February) destination. This one will rankle with people, but Australia in summer is awful. It is school holidays so everywhere is expensive. Places are either massively crowded with families or shut and deserted due to public holidays. It is uncomfortably humid in the north and sizzlingly hot in the south. Conversely, the weather outside this period is simply beautiful.

The south-east of the continent can get surprisingly cold in winter. As mentioned, it is also beautiful at this time of year though.

As a tourist, experiencing Indigenous history/culture can be surprisingly difficult – outside of the Northern Territory and main galleries/museums anyhow. There is a lot of amazingly ancient Aboriginal rock art scattered everywhere around Australia, often in quite random places even the locals seem oblivious to. Sussing out where these are involves doing a fair bit of homework (which in fairness, can be quite fun). Tasmania has an incredible Aboriginal history stretching back millenia, followed by a comprehensive genocide, yet I’ll be damned if I’ve ever seen so much as a museum exhibit about this part of Australian history. Even the largest single collection of Indigenous artefacts and information in the country (the AIATSIS in Canberra) is basically closed-off to interested visitors. Almost everywhere has a local Aboriginal Land Council, where they can give you information about the local history.

Do as the locals do and invest in a wetsuit. Not only do you expand your window for swimming, but it can protect you against annoying jellyfish.

PERSONAL FAVOURITES

Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia Literally one of the most beautiful spots on planet earth; my eyes well-up just thinking about it. The vibrancy of the coral reef; the clear, warm water; and the plethora of marine life (including anemones, groupers, reefies and manta rays) makes visiting here an unforgettable experience.

The reef itself hits the coast, so you can roll out of bed and be swimming with clownfish within 30 seconds. The big ticket item here is to swim with whale sharks. Although it feels a bit touristy, it is genuinely one of those experiences you will remember on your deathbed. The isolation here is also invigorating. Sitting on the beach at night, drinking a beer and looking up at the stars, you feel a nuclear war could break out somewhere and you wouldn’t even know.

The downside is that it’s in an incredibly remote corner of the country, and difficult/expensive to get to. The flipside to this is that you almost have the place to yourself. The main spots to stay are in Coral Bay, or further north in Exmouth (which is a small military town, so not too attractive). Oddly there seem to be a lot of Germans hanging out here – it must be on their beaten track for some reason.

Cradle Mountain – Lake St Clair, Tasmania The otherworldy landscape between Cradle Mountain and Lake St Clair – when covered in snow – is the closest thing you will experience to a real-life version of Narnia (with wombats of course). It is a truly magical, peaceful place filled with unique flora and fauna. Be warned though, depending on the weather it can get really wet and really cold. I walked the Overland Track in April one year in constant rain and snow, and I have never seen so much groundwater in my life.

Speaking of which, you must book ahead to walk the Overland, as thankfully they limit the numbers of humans entering the park. The closest airport is Launceston. Cradle Village basically comprises a ranger station and some chalets, while Derwent Bridge (a 4-5 day walk south) contains a large visitors centre, a few chalets and a cosy pub with the largest open-log fireplace I’ve ever seen.

Actually, just Tasmania in general – See also: this thread here It’s a bit of a cliche to say Tasmania is a beautiful island sanctuary, but it really is. Hobart is a pleasant if slightly rough-around-the-edges maritime city, and an excellent base to explore the Hartz Mountains and Bruny Island to the south, and the convict megasite of Port Arthur to the east. MONA is the big drawcard in town, and although its been a few years since I’ve been, it is most definitely worth the hype. Try not to let young children wander around unsupervised – a couple of exhibits are extremely pornographic.

On the other side of the island Macquarie Harbour (the second-largest in the world) is jaw-dropping, and has an amazing and suitably violent Aboriginal and convict history. The state government run a network of cute little minibuses to get around the island, but if you can afford to driving in Tasmania is a lot of fun thanks to the winding mountain roads.

Kakadu, Northern Territory Being the size of Slovenia, Kakadu is basically like a small country in and of itself (albeit largely devoid of people). There are lots of dirt roads, so it is best to hire a 4WD if you can. Many people stay in the main town, Jabiru, while April-May is the best time to visit, as waterfalls will still be in motion. Lodge and glamping accomodation are available, as are Indigenous tour operators. The swimming is best in the more wild southern end of the park – just be sure to take notice of the red signs which tell you where the crocodiles live! Jim Jim Falls south of Jabiru is very famous, however you need to time it right as it dries-up in the dry season, and is nearly inaccessible in the wet season (but you don’t want to visit in the wet season anyway). You can take a small tour into Arnhem Land from Kakadu, such as up to the Coburg Peninsula. This is a vast, mangrovey and largely inaccessible area mostly controlled by the local Indigenous people.

South Coast of New South Wales The huge chunk of coastline stretching from the quaint town of Berri down to the fishing village of Narooma, is stunningly beautiful. It is popular with locals, but international tourists tend to bypass it if taking the much more mundane inland route between Sydney and Melbourne. The beaches are, almost without exception, beautiful with dramatic scenery. There is very little ‘to do’ here – it is truly a place to unwind, relax and breathe-in some fresh Pacific air.

Pebbly Beach famously has a mob of kangaroos who live literally on the beach (a relatively rare occurence). Part of the charm about this area is that it isn’t built-up at all, however this limits accomodation options so holiday parks or AirBnB will be your friend down here. Touristy ex-mining villages like Tilba and Mogo give the area a lot of it’s character. The Gundary Store at Moruya is one of the nicest rural cafes I’ve been to in Australia.

Australian Alps As with practically everywhere in Australia, this bioregion stradling NSW and Victoria is utterly unique. It is home to flora and fauna found nowhere else on earth, in particular the marvellous snow gumtrees, as well as some small marsupials on the brink of extinction. Bright and Mount Hotham are the main places to stay in Victoria, Jindabyne, Thredbo and Lake Crackenback in New South Wales. Traditionally a winter sports destination, the popularity of mountain biking is attracting people to the area all-year round. In summer, a trip to Mount Kosciusko is also a lot of fun – catch the chairlift from the alpine village of Thredbo to Eagle’s Nest (Australia’s highest restaurant) and walk from there. (Incidentally, I once saw some frogs in the snow near the summit and I still can’t explain what species they would have been...) If you are into cross-country skiing, the backcountry starting from the hamlet of Guthega, heading north across the Snowy River, is breathtakingly beautiful.

FAMOUS PLACES WHERE YOU CAN'T GO WRONG

Port Douglas & Daintree Rainforest, Queensland – Port Douglas is the tropical beachside town out of central casting. Lying in the Pacific on a clear day, looking across the golden beach fringed by rainforested hills, it’s hard to think of anywhere else you would rather be. If you can afford it, taking a guided 4WD tour into the Daintree Rainforest is well worth the expense, especially if you get the chance to swim in one of the creeks.

Melbourne – The thing you notice about Melbourne is the civic pride. The locals clearly adore their city, and this enthusiasm is infectious. With the big exception of not having a train to the airport (seriously – what a pain in the ass), Melbourne is hard to fault. It is almost overwheming in its busyness - clearly growing at a rapid pace, it must surely be one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the world (perhaps along with Toronto). Having Australia’s two largest stadia, plus the Rod Laver Arena, within the inner city area makes attending major events a breeze, unlike in some other cities (I’m looking at you, Sydney). And of course the icing on the cake is the trams, which weave among pedestrians and traffic like benign sea creatures; they really are a magnificent part of the cityscape.

Katoomba – Leura, NSW – This town-village combo sits atop Australia’s answer to the Grand Canyon, albeit cooler, more verdant, and with only slightly less swarms of tourists. Leura is probably the quaintest settlement in Australia. Its weatherboard cottages really are gorgeous, and it’s worth getting away from the railway station and wandering around here for a bit. The main shopping strip of Katoomba is set-back a relatively long way from the Three Sisters lookout. There are regular shuttle buses but if you just head in the general direction of the cliffs it’s a nice 20-minute walk.

The cable car and gondola at Scenic World are very touristy but still worth the price of admission. The rollercoaster-esque mountain railway (the steepest in the world apparently) into the valley is surprisingly enjoyable. There are lots of hiking paths around the place to enjoy the stunning views of the valley. Katoomba itself has a few top-class restaurants, so check your TripAdvisor when there. The train to and from Sydney did get notoriously crowded, especially at weekends. I have heard that Sydney Trains have put on extra services now, so it may have improved.

Uluru & Watarrka, Northern Territory – There’s a lot about travelling to Uluru and King’s Canyon elsewhere on this sub. It’s a long trek but definitely worth it. I was lucky enough to see Uluru after the rains, and the land around here was vibrant with grasses and wildflowers. My recommendation would be to only fit it into your itinerary if you are down under for a long time, due to the time, and distance.

Sunshine Coast, Queensland – More a sprawling conurbation of towns than an actual city, you can’t go wrong with the Sunshine Coast for a beach holiday (specifically Noosa, which is the trendier counterpart to Marrochydore and Caloundra further south). Sunshine Beach in particular is magnificent. The hunterland is also an interesting corner of the country, including the Glasshouse Mountains, and the striking Blackhall Mountains to the north which evokes a smaller, flatter version of Sugarloaf Mountain in Rio.

Margaret River, Western Australia – There’s two things to do here. Drink wine, and swim in the warm Indian Ocean. The main town makes a nice enough base to explore the wineries in the region. It helps (as I did) to travel with someone who knows about wines and can take you to the best restaurants and tastings. The beaches here are on the world surfing circuit, so double-check dates so you don’t get caught at a particularly crowded time.

SOMEWHAT UNDER-RATED PLACES

Canberra – Australians seem to discourage visitors from exploring their capital, which is a shame because it is beautiful, interesting, and within the context of Australian cities, genuinely unique. The city is built around a massive lake, overlooked by the Brindabella Mountains (briefly snowcapped in winter), and is home to a vast network of cycling paths – so going on an exploratory bike ride is a must. Because the city is so spread-out, it is extremely quiet (too much so for some people’s liking), and hiring a car is required if visiting for any length of time.

As well as the lake, the national institutions for visiting include the National Gallery (simply fantastic), Parliament House, the National Library (which has an excellent bookshop), the National War Memorial (actually a museum) and the small National Portrait Gallery. Free tours for all of these are run at regular intervals so check their websites. A large portion of the city center comprises a huge and peaceful university campus, which is worth wandering around. In the south-east corner near the New Acton neighbourhood sits the ‘Shine Dome’, a local landmark and possibly the world’s greatest example of retrofuturistic architecture. Also a must is a visit to the Brindabellas, either Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve or the more wild Namadgi National Park (where a freakishly large mob of kangaroos inhabit the Orroral Valley), both of which nestle in the northernmost range of the Australian Alps.

Kangaroo Island, South Australia – Not really under-rated by locals, but sort of off the beaten track for foreigners. It combines the features of a glamourous eco-tourism destination with that of a rural, workaday municipality (many of the locals are descendants of soldier-farmers who were settled here after WWI). The island is famous for three things – it’s plethora of wildlife, wine, and lighthouses. It also appears to be something of a mecca for honey-lovers. The capital Kingscote is the oldest permanent settlement in South Australia.

Robe, South Australia – Popular with locals, this is a really cute colonial coastal town that seems to be bypassed by international tourists. A bit like a smaller version of Albany in Western Australia. Good for a detour if driving between Melbourne and Adelaide.

UNDERWHELMING PLACES

Bondi – An overcrowded beach. And not even that accessible. There are literally thousands of nicer beaches you can spend time at in Australia.

Great Barrier Reef Coast – Obviously this encompasses a huge area, but most people head for Cairns, which is OK but not that great. Most reef charters are very crowded; the reef is obviously great but (cf. Ningaloo) there are better reefs to go to in Australia. A bit further inland, the Atherton Tableland is a tropical plateau filled with dairy farms and small towns – it makes for a very pleasant excursion.

Wineglass Bay, Tasmania – A staple in most Australian tourism ads, Wineglass Bay is genuinely impressive. It’s just a bit out of the way and the surrounding bushwalks aren’t that great. Unless you’re literally driving around Tasmania you can leave it off your itinerary.

Tweed River area (Byron), NSW – Very much on the backpacker trail, Byron Bay is generally acknowledged as being too popular for its own good. Surrounding areas such as Ballina, Nimbin and Mullimbimby are enjoyably quirky places.

Adelaide – For you Canadians out there, Adelaide is a bit like Winnipeg – a large city stuck on its own almost in the middle of nowhere afflicted by intermittently extreme weather. Don’t get me wrong, I’m sure Adelaide is a lovely place to live (as evidenced by the fact that the locals seem very proud of the place). It’s just hard to really enjoy as a tourist without a local to show you what’s what.

A FEW OTHER OK-ISH PLACES

Sydney – It’s hard for me to be objective about Sydney because I travel there so much for work. Get an Opal card and aimlessly ride the trains, or catch a ferry to get nice views of the Harbour. As well as the Manly and Taronga ferries, the Neutral Bay and Watson’s Bay ferries are very enjoyable. cost involved. The Sydney Opera House – arguably the most iconic building of the 20th Century – totally lives up to the hype. Like a mountain, it looks totally different depending on which angle and aspect you view it from. I’ve gazed upon it literally hundreds of times and I never get bored of it.

I’d recommend staying somewhere in the lower north shore or Eastern Suburbs (close to a train station) rather than in the CBD. A great walk is to go over the Harbour Bridge from the Rocks, around Neutral Bay to Bradley’s Head – probably some of the nicest city views of anywhere in the world.

Brisbane – A pleasant enough place, but not a huge amount to it. The South Bank is nice and the Art Gallery there is one of many excellent state galleries in Australia. There is a quirky system of underground bus tunnels going through the city – worth a trip just for the novelty of it.

Perth – Like Brisbane, but less humid and with better trains. Rottnest Island is the big attraction for tourists. Be warned it is larger than you might think, so be prepared if cycling around the island. There are some gorgeous little beaches in which to swim in the warm Indian Ocean. Oh, and the quokkas are every bit as adorable as they look in the photos.

Cape Otway, Victoria – A very popular holidaying spot thanks to the 12 Apostles. The National Park here is also famous for birdwatching, while the nearby towns of Apollo Bay and Princetown are extremely pretty.

Albany-Esperance, Western Australia – Esperance is famous for its magnificent beach. It’s also one of those many places in Australia where you can almost soak-in the sense of isolation. Further west, Albany is an old whaling town with a lot of charm. It is also the home of Tim Winton, one of Australia’s favourite novelists.

Gold Coast, Queensland – The Gold Coast is what it is – a smaller, less hectic Australian version of Miami. One of the beachside suburbs is even called Miami! Broadbeach is the nicest part of town, and has some really good restaurants. Chilling out on the beach after a night out is a really good way to end the day. The light rail makes checking out the various beaches very easy, while the mountainous hinterland is also good for a day out, with some pleasant cafes shaded by trees.