Background: 24 year old female Canadian. I have a general interest in the region, work with a fair amount of Kurdish refugees at home, and had some vacation days to use or lose. It was a last minute trip, so I just took it as an opportunity to learn more about the culture and understand day-to-day life in the region.

Length of Stay: 9 days, March 2019.

Visa: As a Canadian, I was able to get a VOA. I've seen some reports for 15 days, but mine was valid for 30 days.

Destinations: Erbil, Sulaymaniyah, Dukan Lake, Akre, Shaqlawa, Soran/Rawanduz area. By shared taxi and rides with locals. Unfortunately, I didn't end up making it west to Dohuk or Lalish, but I heard fantastic things.

Budget: Not including flights, approximately $300-350 CAD. Definitely bring more USD cash than you think you'll need though. It is perfectly safe to carry around and petty crime is very, very low. Currency exchange happens casually and openly on the street. The hassle of trying to find an ATM isn't worth it.

Accommodations: A mix of couch-surfing and hotels. The owner of Dolphin Hotel in Sulay is a super kind dude who's traveled to 70+ countries on his Iraqi passport, which is no easy feat. He really cares about his guests, the tourism prospects in Iraq, and he will go out of his way to help you. This is the closest place to a hostel you'll find.

Recommendations: Meet and chat (or try to chat, haha) with the locals. The language barrier is intense - take it in stride. Eat good (cheap!) food. Visit the Amna Suraka Museum in Sulay. Wander around the citadel in Erbil. If you're a drinker, the German Beer Garden in Ankawa is a really fun place to meet both locals and foreigners. Get lost in the bazaars. Go to the countryside for a picnic - a very popular Kurdish activity. Be open and interested in what people want to share with you, whether it's a cup of tea, a story, or a place.

What Went Wrong: The weather was pretty miserable. It rained at some point every single day that I was there. It initially threw my outdoor/nature-centred itinerary for a loop. But it was a good reminder that nothing is guaranteed, especially weather, and it's important to stay flexible while traveling. On the plus side, things were extra green!

What Went Right: The nature is even more beautiful than you expect. The history is fascinating. The lack of tourists, and tourism infrastructure in general, made it both challenging and really rewarding. In a lot of ways, it felt like the most authentic travel experience I've ever had. Like someone else on here mentioned, I never felt taken advantage of for being a tourist. It's also a very diverse region, so I was able to meet a wide variety of people (Iraqi Kurds, Syrian Kurds, Arabs from the south, some expats, etc.) The people are the absolute highlight - friendly and welcoming. Even though Kurdistan is not representative of the rest of Iraq, I still felt like I was able to gain more perspective on the whole country.

Traveling Solo as a Female in Iraqi Kurdistan: I can't predict or speak to anyone else's experiences, but I never felt unsafe by myself. However, it's unlikely that you'll meet many other travellers, if any. You have to be willing to meet local people. The women I did meet were lovely, but the overwhelming majority of people I spent time with were men. The overwhelming majority of people on couch-surfing are also men. There were many times where I was the only woman in eyesight, including hours spent in shared taxis with multiple men who did not speak any English. This is a reality and it is something that you have to consider and be comfortable with. Unfortunately, I didn't have much time to plan in advance, but I'm sure it'd be possible to connect with some local women beforehand - or find other ways to meet locals besides couch-surfing.

I also did not find Kurdish hospitality to be as in-your-face as some people proclaim. I attributed this partly to the shitty weather (less people, including myself, were just leisurely walking around the streets), partly to the language barrier, and partly to being a woman on my own. Locals are much more cautious of randomly approaching a solo female foreigner than a solo male foreigner. Once I started making friends, however, the Kurdish warmth absolutely shone through.

Overall Verdict: A very special trip - definitely worth visiting for those who have personal ties or interest in the region. You are guaranteed to leave with amazing friends, unique memories, and a new understanding of Iraq/Kurdistan.

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Important Note: I really, genuinely loved my experience - it helped shatter so many of my own personal biases. However, I would not recommend Iraqi Kurdistan to anyone new to solo travel or new to more "challenging" places.

Of the three other travellers I met, two of them were full-time vloggers going "off the beaten path" as part of their job (nice people - but a very bizarre experience to randomly meet them). I'd hope that someone wouldn't travel to Iraq blindly, but in the age of social media, sometimes these documented highlights can gloss over genuine challenges and safety concerns that the average traveler will face. People can quickly jump to a place because someone on Instagram posted a nice picture of it. Yes, this part of Iraq is filled with beautiful nature, wonderful people, and a surprising sense of stability and safety. I think that reality deserves to be promoted, so that we can fight negative stereotypes and inaccurate Western portrayals (which is partly why I'm writing this). But at the end of the day, Iraqi Kurdistan is still Iraq. Iraq is still Iraq, and while there's an increasing number of people vouching for its tourism potential (myself included), it's important to be realistic about your experience and the context on the ground.

Have at least a basic understanding of the politics embedded within a new place. Be cautious, alert, and aware that things can change quickly. Have a plan for what will happen if they do. Be mindful of the diversity of local people. Don't expect a backpacking culture. Take the necessary precautions (buy high-risk travel insurance, figure out where the closest embassy is, etc.). Don't be a moron, basically. I know I'm probably preaching to the choir here, but the last thing I'd want is someone reading a trip report, being inspired to go somewhere, and then going.. "oh fuck, I'm not prepared for this" AFTER the fact.

-- Sorry for accidentally writing a novel. Edited for formatting. Open to any questions about logistics! :)